http://www.esafety.cn/blog/u/11256/index.html

散文:诗歌与德令哈

作者[孙守仁] 发表于[2012-10-15 7:19:00]
《工人日报》(2012年10月15日 06版)叶延滨
   

青海省海西州的诗友邀我去参加在德令哈举办的“首届海子青年诗歌节”。我欣然应邀前往。德令哈是海西州的州府所在地,海西州位于青海湖之西,辖30万平方公里柴达木盆地,是青海省区域面积最大的蒙古族藏族自治州,每平方公里平均1.3个人,大部分土地为荒漠、半荒漠和高原草甸。柴达木系蒙古语,意为“盐泽之地”,在中学的地理课本上我早就熟悉了它的盐湖盐路以及石油和有色金属的故事。然而柴达木的州府德令哈,却是青年诗人海子的一首诗告诉我的:“今夜我在德令哈,夜色笼罩\姐姐,我今夜只有戈壁\草原的尽头我两手空空\悲痛时握不住一颗泪滴\姐姐,今夜我在德令哈\这是雨水中一座荒凉的城……”当年我在四川成都主编《星星》诗刊,当我听到海子辞世的消息,这首悲凉的短诗让我记住了大漠里有一座小城叫“德令哈”。20多年过去了,德令哈变成了一座繁华的绿洲小城。这座小城没有忘记那位让小城插上诗歌翅膀的青年诗人,在市中心的巴音河畔,专门修建了海子诗歌纪念馆,在纪念馆开馆之际,举办“首届海子青年诗歌节”。一座遥远的大漠绿洲小城,就这样以诗歌的名义,让我走近她!

走近德令哈,也就走进了“遥远”的诗意。我在北京打开电脑,百度此行的路程。我坐飞机到青海的首府西宁,然后百度搜索的结果,西宁到德令哈乘车要8个小时以上的车程。在航空和高铁的时代,8个小时的车程,只能在新疆、青海和西藏这样天高山高水高的地区还可以体验,体验诗意的“遥远”。

此前,我已经6次到青海,大美青海每一次都给我以灵魂的洗礼,在青海湖我一次次感受到壮阔,在坎布拉神话般的天空下我领略到纯粹,在贵德清澈的黄河边我分享了宁静,而此次前往德令哈的路途,我走进诗意的遥远。这遥远是日月山草甸上的经幡,那七色经幡飘动着遥远的“文成公主”的故事,一个女人远嫁吐蕃,在遥远的出嫁云水路上,留下多少悠长的情丝。这遥远是夏日牧场上的帐篷,炊烟一缕让灰白的羊群和黑色的牦牛群生动成远天的棋子,是谁在和命运博弈?这遥远让布满骆驼刺的荒原,因为尚未完工的高速公路的绿色护栏而有了生机,这遥远让祼露褐色岩石的祁连山脉,因为高举银臂的高压线塔而有了精神。我曾想,人生有限的岁月,又把一整天的时光留在这戈壁滩上,值得吗?少年不知愁,少年时背着行囊,数月与几个伙伴跋涉于荒野山乡,觉得好坏是证明生命的意义,而今天一天的行程,再次体悟遥远的诗意,我才觉得城市中不知为什么的“忙碌”,我们丢失得太多了。在这里,高天上一只鹰会让我惊喜,荒原上一幢小屋会让我关注,草甸上一棵独自站立的树会让我伤感,遥远的行程让我走近自己陌生的内心。

来到德令哈,也就走进了“宽阔”的诗意。这座在海子当年诗篇中还是“荒凉的城”,已经完全变得像新娘一样漂亮动人,宽畅而整洁的街道,一幢幢新楼,一排排绿树,都好像在修改着诗人赋予小城的意境,德令哈在蒙语中的意思是“金色的世界”,也是最美丽柴达木生态绿洲。我们来到德令哈当天晚上,参加了在这里举行的“第3届世界山地纪录片节”的颁奖晚会,各种肤色的艺术家们欢聚一堂,让我们忘记了这里是大漠一隅,仿佛置身于北京或者西宁的某个影剧院,边城德令哈以宽阔的胸怀拥抱各国艺术家。第二天上午,诗歌节在巴音河畔的海子诗歌纪念馆开幕。开幕式上,除了来自全国各地的诗人和诗歌批评家,青海省委宣传部长彝族诗人吉狄马加、蒙古族州长诺卫星等当地政要也到会与诗人们一起度过自己的节日。也许诗歌能感天动地,常年干旱的荒原,此刻云团聚集,拉开了天地间的大布景,细雨霏霏,再现了海子诗意,也滋润着在场所有人的心田。这就是德令哈的“宽阔”意境,能够给全世界“山地影片艺术家”捧上鲜花,也能为一位青年诗人勒石刻碑。我看到雨水亲吻一块块刻着诗篇的巨大的五彩巨石,一股热流涌上心头。

进入德令哈,也就走进了“神秘”的诗意。给我们当导游的是当地的“志愿者”,晓肖姑娘是一个快乐的藏族女孩,她在内地桂林完成学业,问她“为什么不留在桂林,她说:“桂林哪有德令哈好啊,夏天热得要命,冬天冻得要死。”也许我们会觉得高寒地区的德令哈哪里会比得上桂林,但小姑娘就是这么感受的,德令哈夏天不用安空调,冬天烧足了暖气,理由还不充分吗?小姑娘说,你们知道吗?青海特产三蛋,洋芋蛋、红脸蛋和欢蛋。什么是欢蛋,就是欢快的小姑娘。原来如此,那么应该写成欢旦,旦角的旦。德令哈快乐的姑娘们给大家留下鲜明的印象,她们是德令哈的“形象大使”。

美丽的欢旦们背后的德令哈,神秘而诱人。最神秘的是“外星人遗址”。外星人遗址就坐落在咸水的托素湖南岸。远远望去,高出地面五六十米的黄灰色的山崖有如一座金字塔。在山的正面有三个明显的三角形岩洞,中间最大洞口,离地面2米多高,深约6米,最高处近8米。洞内有一根直径约40厘米的管状物的半边管壁从顶部斜通到底。另一根相同口径的管状物从底壁通到地下,只露出管口。洞口之上,还有10余根直径大小不一的管子穿入山体之中,管壁与岩石完全吻合,好像直接将管道插入岩石之中一般。这些管状物无论粗细长短,都呈现出铁锈般的褐红色。而东西两洞由于岩石坍塌,已无法入内。在湖边和岩洞周围,星罗密布着许多站立的奇形怪状石块,面对着烟波浩淼的托素湖。托素湖是盐水湖,和它相联的可鲁克湖却是淡水湖,烟波浩渺,云雾舒卷,鸥飞鱼跃,芦荡环绕,荒漠中永远的神话绿洲。

遥远、宽阔而又神秘的德令哈,就这样留在我的生命旅程中,像一首诗,打开时,在我眼前,合上了,在我心中……

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  • 原创

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    原创

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